![]() I have seriously considered, pitching my SouthBend setup and going back to stock, be done with the problems.ĭ. This is the STOCK system so, you would most likely, not have any shifting problems, that the performance aftermarket systems seem to be having. I would think about the future and if you are going to get performance stage upgrades or bigger turbos etc. go with the OEM LUK brand, if you go that route. Stock clutch: keeping the DMF, quieter, potentially failure prone but the prices have come down. ![]() I cannot guarantee that you won't have problems but I would think they would have better R&D then South Bend, you never know, until you try.Ĭ. I don't know anyone personally who has used this kit but it is a affordable option, I have heard good things about the kit for the 5 speed 02J. Stock level clutch/smf conversion kit by the respected OEM company VALEO: all the parts are made by them and it is a affordable kit, they designed some features to absorb some of the sounds/shock that the original DMF was supposed to (flywheel, PP, Disk, throw out bearing etc). Others, say it isn't a problem and use the NLS shim kit or find other problems, that seem to contribute the issue (too much play in the input shaft, bad clutch disks, failed hydraulics, poor/wrong clearance with p/p, incorrectly bled systems, etc.) the explanations and possibilities, seem to be endless.ī. There are rumors of a company coming out with a conversion kit, that converts everything over to a early steel master cylinder from a earlier VW that can handle the pressure and solve the problem. There is strong anecdotal evidence to suggest, that the stock clutch master cylinder/hydraulic system is not up to the task of being able to handle the increased pressure from the performance clutch/pressure plate combos on the market. I am running a SouthBend setup: after what I have experienced, I don't know if I would recommend it. performance aftermarket: while stronger, can give you allot of problems, that I am still dealing with (hard to get into gear, grinding etc.) I would advise against it, the NLS shim has helped allot of people but has not cured everyone's problems. If money is tight you check the DMF for play and everything looks ok, you could probably get away with reusing it but you are most likely, going to have to replace it, at some point soon anyway (sooner, rather then later).Ī. If you have the money and the clutch is worn, it is probably worth replacing it. (the whole enchilada): you are in there and would rather then go through pulling the trans in the future. Replace clutch/flywheel/throw out bearing et. This is another primary weak point I would go with the ARP bolts, they are cheaper then official VW ones anyway.ģ. ![]() Install ARP differential nuts/bolts: go ahead, drill out the rivets and replace them (with bolts), even if you don't put a limited slip differential in your trans (e.g. ![]() Anything can be broken but the steel forks, would be less failure prone.Ģ. weld/bolt the shift forks (I would do them all your in there, go ahead and eliminate the weak areas): they also, sell the metal ones 1st/2nd, 3rd/4th (USP Motorsports/APTuning), really depends on what you are going to do with the car and if you are going to upgrade the performance to higher levels, how aggressive you are when shifting (racing, track days, fasting shifting daily driving, etc.) but steel, is stronger then the brass/steel. Having gone through all this brain damage myself: this is what I would recommend doing:ġ. I bought a new fork from my VW dealer, just need to pull the trans and do the swap. I am assuming that this caused the stiffness/binding, in 5th/6th. is that when I had the 5th/6th fork welded, that it go slightly warped. Hey, I have not resolved my problem (have not pulled the trans yet) the theory, at this point. ![]()
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